Proper, final week, I made noises a few load of samples dropping by way of the door. And so they did. I obtained three samples from one supplier plus a big pattern set from a home I’m not aware of. I used to be planning to jot down in regards to the first three samples collectively. However, as soon as I began the Golestan part of the submit it grew to become clear that this wanted to be standalone. So, that’s the place we’re as we speak – and the opposite two will wait until subsequent week.
12 months in the past, undecided what number of, I learn or heard about Tauer Le Maroc pour Elle and L’Air du Desert Marocain, his first fragrances made for a neighborhood good friend’s store, and got down to get samples. Duly arrived, tried the Le Maroc. Good. Then in all probability subsequent day sprayed on LDDM.
A type of ‘oh my’ moments, however a little bit of a mind squeeze. I’d spray it on and scent and be drawn in time and again, like I did this for days, attempting to determine what I discovered so godawful compelling. As a result of it wasn’t particular notes that stood out. It was that general scent on me. I gave up after some time and simply accepted that I adored it.
I had one in all my ‘I’m at unfastened ends, I would like some samples’ a variety of weeks in the past. I had seen one thing on Golestan and on one thing else that piqued my curiosity, so I went trying. I used to be capable of order each at a new-to-me pattern web site right here referred to as Tiny Fragrances. Respectable mixture of stuff; good CS.
So, the parcel confirmed up and Golestan was the very first thing I attempted.
This was launched final yr (ie, 2022). First couple of samplings, this was a critical conundrum. It doesn’t scent of the notes checklist on me, a minimum of for the primary few hours, and I spent the occasions I sampled it attempting to tease out particular person notes with out an excessive amount of luck earlier than largely giving up and simply having fun with the trip. As a result of it’s a really fascinating trip. And I used to be reminded of the expertise I’d had with L’Air du Desert Marocain all these years in the past.
The backstory on Golestan is Andy Tauer visiting a piece of the Louvre he hadn’t been to earlier than, overlaying the Persian empires and historical past. The go to sparked extra analysis, resulting in discovery of a palace referred to as Golestan constructed within the 16th century in Iran, which was often known as the Rose Backyard Palace – resulting in this fragrance.
Edifice of the Solar part of the Golestan Palace
Per the Tauer web site, “the fragrance of a flower backyard”. Notes embrace ylang, bergamot, lemon zest, tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, Damask rose, ambergris, vanilla, patchouli, woody notes and cistus incanus (beneath).
What an inventory! However on me, this smells of what I ended up, after a little bit of head-spinningness, labelling historical mud (this was earlier than I learn the backstory, so I don’t really feel I used to be influenced).
As quickly as I received my first whiff off the wrist I went on the lookout for a evaluation from the primary Perfumes: The Information about Guerlain Behavior Rouge as a result of I recalled the subheader having one thing to do with mud (turned out to be ‘candy mud’) and I needed to substantiate that what I used to be smelling made some kind of aromachemical sense. Per Luca Turin, that mud ‘sense’ derives from an orange blossom and oppoponax accord. A tough barely floral scratchy mud scent. Okay, thanks, that helps. There’s orange blossom on this, however not oppoponax. So, I questioned if the combo that led me to scent mud is likely to be the mentholated facet of tuberose and/or the ‘wooden notes’ or the cistus incantus, which is listed as having a woody herbaceous aroma.
This smells on me like how I’d think about the air round an historical web site smells. However possibly someplace in Greece with that floral herbaceous scent you get within the hills. As I stated above, I’ve bother teasing out notes on this – till it begins to dry down. So, for the primary few hours I simply get that uncanny mud facet.
Apparently, on paper, I discovered it a lot simpler to delineate completely different notes, getting a fruitier, lighter fragrance, with one thing candied.
In any case, that is beautiful. It’s lengthy lived on my pores and skin, and solely hours into its improvement do I begin to get the Tauer-ade (that amber incensy sweetness). In any other case, it’s that other-worldly mud which is decidedly not candy and after some time I feel I can discern orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose, however I is likely to be making that up.
Oh, and earlier than I overlook, the bottle artwork is gorgeous: a tackle Persian flower work. I wasn’t vastly taken with the artwork on the Sundowner bottle (very a lot favored the perfume), however that is beautiful.
So, that is extrait de parfum, 50ml and round £165 right here. On to the ‘need’ checklist it goes.
Anybody else smelled this? Ideas?
Pics: Golestan bottle pic with permission of Tauer Perfumes. Others wiki